Frappato is a totally unexpected wine and surprising interpreter
of a complex land. It is also versatile, adapting itself to embody
the story and vision of its grower, the winemaking philosophy
and qualities of those who work with it. And its roots go deep in
its homeland: Vittoria. In this report, several leading Frappato
producers reveal their thoughts on this intriguing variety, all
representing diverse prospectives but with a common, shared
sentiment: their passion for this wine.
The discussion, which took place at Arianna’s
wine estate in Vittoria, involves several leading
Frappato producers, as they consider the present
and future of a wine uniquely able to express
its terroir of origin. The discussion table bore a
goodly number of bottles and wineglasses, all
fruits of personal interpretations of this variety.
On 20 February 2025, Arianna Occhipinti, Giusto Occhipinti,
Guglielmo Manenti, Nikolas Resin, Waiata Kalma and Salvo Foti met
in Arianna Occhipinti’s company lounge to talk about Frappato, the
future, the territory and gestures, actions that can help develop it.
Giampaolo Gravina had been invited to conduct
this discussion, and he would certainly have
contributed substantial considerations, thanks to his
acknowledged ability to shed light on areas of wine
culture of fundamental importance. But Giampaolo
is no longer with us, and so we want to dedicate the
present discussion to him.
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
In April, I’ll be releasing our 20th vintage of Frappato, an
important occasion for me. I need to stop for a moment to
reflect on the overall situation—what Frappato has been,
what it will be, what possibilities it still gives us, and what
precisely Frappato is for me, for us. I felt the need to share
this occasion with some of the producers in our area, with
those who have worked here for many years and those who
have recently arrived, who decided to move here for the love
of this wine.
It pleased me to bring together different people, all with a
different idea of their work, but whom I particularly respect.
Protagonists of Frappato who, in their diversity, put into
their work so much effort, so much culture, so much
commitment, and emotion as well, which is what I believe
has characterized our work a little, of all of us.
Frappato in the words of those who make it
GUGLIELMO MANENTI
Well, my story is a bit of an outlier. I have a small winery in
contrada Bastonaca. I’m probably the most microscopic of
the producers in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria Consorzio, but
they asked me to serve as its President…
SALVO FOTI
Serving as an interpreter of a vineyard through its wine has
always intrigued me. That’s what I’ve been doing a long time
now, particularly as a winemaker on Etna, where I run a small
operation together with my children.
NIKOLAS RESIN
I’m German. When I was studying enology in Germany,
I learned about the wines of Vittoria through those of Giusto
Occhipinti’s Cos winery. I fell in love with them, and I decided
to come and work here. Then, my wife and I found a place
where we could create our own winery, which is not easy in
Vittoria. We now have a total of five hectares at Serravalle.
GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI
I have just finished working with my 45th harvest here at
Cos, my winery. That’s always the most exciting moment of
our work. Nothing like it.
WAIATA KALMA
I, on the other hand, was born in New Zealand; then, at 14,
I went to France to study. Later on, I worked as a sommelier
in London, Melbourne, and again in Paris. In Australia,
I discovered the wines of Sicily. And then, with Nikolas, we
came here to start working.
What does it mean to you to work with Frappato, in
this area of Sicily that is not as easy as other areas,
such as Etna, for example? Why? Who made you do it?
WAIATA KALMA
When we selected where we wanted to live, work, make
wine, have children, we also considered what grapes we
wanted to work with. Sure, Nero d’Avola is interesting, but
Frappato was the grape that we wanted to touch, work,
drink. It was that love that brought us here.
The challenge of identity: Frappato “from Vittoria”?
What is unique about making wine in Sicily?
GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI
If you think about it, there is no place in the world where the harvest
lasts from July to the end of October. We are talking here about only
200 kilometres, a very brief distance, on an island, all things considered,
apparently homogeneous. And yet, everything changes from kilometre
to kilometre. Sicily, as we all say, is actually a continent--in geology, in its
macro-areas, micro-areas, temperature differentials, and in its rainfall.
GUGLIELMO MANENTI
Very true. We, for example, use the low bush-trained alberello system, a
training method that goes a bit against the grain here in Vittoria. From an
agricultural point of view, we are experimenting with how the vines behave.
And this allows me to make some observations. Since 2006, when I started,
I have seen a whole series of “no” years that delivered over-abundant rain in
the various production phases. What I noticed, too, is that in extremely hot
years, Frappato suffers less than our Nero d’Avola. This last harvest was really
hard because of the rain that didn’t come: Frappato is a vine that responds
well even in conditions of great climate stress, and so it works very well in this
growing area. This could bode well for the future.
Does climate change impact ageing as well?
How does Frappato age?
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
Currently, all of us sell our Frappato, for better or for worse, in its first two
years of life, and the market works through the vintage in 5-6 years. But
its ageing potential is a different matter, of course. Some time ago, we
tasted a vertical of 17 vintages, and I have to tell you that the results were
absolutely solid and that the wines still had much to say for themselves.
This comforts me. So nothing stops us from deliberately cellaring it, then
seeing it on prestigious wine lists, perhaps in a few years. It has acidity, pH,
a thick skin, very high tannins: there are many things that make this wine
last over time and, on a production level, you can rely on it a lot.
GUGLIELMO MANENTI
Its longevity potential is still untried, because there hasn’t been time,
for many of us, to really verify it. It would be interesting to focus on this
characteristic, which may well enhance the reputation of our growing area. However, we now sell a refreshing wine that should be enjoyed, let’s say, in
a fairly easy way. I don’t mind being in a wine bar, exploiting the capacity of
an easy-drinking, approachable wine. I would tend to be less interested in
a limited clientele, certainly much more serious and willing to spend a little
more for a wine that actually has the potential, rightly, to be able to age.
However, that is definitely a possibility. Let’s talk about it. The question is interesting because it also significantly determines
the way we tell the story of Frappato, which is currently presented
as a wine that is, as you say, pleasant, straightforward, crisp, and
youthful. However, you could also underscore its excellent aging
potential, thus expanding the market. And its image.
Frappato has never been vinified to last over time, but to be consumed
immediately. And yet, it is excellent even after twenty years. So, that means
that it can be drunk immediately as well as last over time. I see that in the
market it possesses an extra edge because it is Sicilian, it is crisp, fresh, fruity,
and low in alcohol. It is a grape variety that is now found on the wine lists of
the world, because it is unique. Nero d’Avola also has many beautiful aspects,
but it is more linked to Sicily in general, while Frappato gives a completely
different image of our island. And one strongly bound to this growing area.
The only people I have met who do not particularly like Frappato are its Sicilian
customers.
Challenges and Opportunities: Climate, Market and the Future
Do Sicilians understand Frappato?
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
When I started producing Frappato, it was an inexpensive product, selling
for a few euros. The value of the grape variety was not recognized. I tried to
steer the conversation to the identity of Frappato and at the same time, I
increased the price. Today, the situation has certainly changed, even if many
local restaurateurs still do not fully understand the grape. That there are
still only few producers is a limiting factor, in the sense that more Frappato
labels would lead to a more articulated discussion, even with sommeliers.
It’s true. The problem is that we are still too few. I must honestly admit
that Arianna’s entry into the community constituted a quantum leap, but
we need a few more producers distributed around, cloned like Dolly the
sheep and sent to colonize this territory. She has also brought younger
generations closer to wine and has given her work an imprint of joy, of
redemption. This is to say that it takes passion, rigour, and above all human
resources. This is why I believe that every producer must give back a share
of their value to the territory. The truth is that in a place like this, it is really
difficult to orient oneself. We need to be together. Of course, alone you go
faster, but you lose a view of the horizon. We need the territory, and we
need to recognize ourselves in the identity of Vittoria.
SALVO FOTI
This is why I insist: we should always call our wine “Frappato di Vittoria.” I
would never abandon this fundamental identifier. I also insist on the food
service sector: customers probably don’t care for it because they are used
to other Frappatos, grown in areas that are not exactly appropriate. So, it is
clear that Sicily, in general, can gain an even higher reputation if we manage
to create and communicate the internal biodiversity of what we rightly call a
“continent.”
Can we use Frappato as a key to understanding a wine culture
and a specific area?
SALVO FOTI
Of course. Nero d’Avola is a grape variety from southeastern Sicily that
marketing initiatives have made generically “Sicilian.” But that’s not really
the case. Nerello Mascalese, which is presented as an identifier for an
area, shows that the intimate relationship between a grape variety and
its preferred place of origin also functions well commercially. Another
fundamental aspect is the winegrowing civilization, those who create
it. The producer. When they bring me a Frappato, I want to know if it’s made
by Giusto, by Arianna or by Guglielmo. We must convey, above all, who is the
interpreter of this grape variety. Un altro aspetto fondamentale è la civiltà vitivinicola, l’uomo che ci lavora. Il produttore. Quando mi portano un Frappato voglio sapere se è di Giusto, di Arianna o di Guglielmo. Dobbiamo imparare a raccontare soprattutto chi è l’interprete di questo vitigno. Sarebbe a questo punto utile capire se secondo voi il Frappato è più identificativo di altri vigneti rispetto al territorio?
NIKOLAS RESIN
This is the reason why Waiata and I came to Vittoria. We were convinced
by the idea of working with such an elegant wine, with such promising
potential. In our interpretation, we don’t see it as a wine with a high alcohol
content, nor with an excessive maceration. In Italy, many believe that a
wine must be very macerated to be impressive, like Brunello and Barolo.
For me, wine must have a simpler expression. We hope, over the years, to
increasingly enhance the agricultural work behind it. And an approach that
can enhance the organic substances, life, and biodiversity, within a territory.
WAIATA KALMA
It is a wine that you do not expect, one difficult to describe in words, with
technical notes. The ideal would be for consumers to come here to really
get to know it and see where it is born, taste it, and above all meet the
people who make it.
How do you approach the problem of the younger generations?
Can the low-alcohol, straightforward Frappato attract an audience
that is moving away from the world of wine?
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
I have always striven to make accessible something difficult. When I started
working in this sector, significant economic investments were made and
people were running away from a more strictly agricultural approach in
favour of answering the demands of the market. The fact that I started at
twenty was proof that it is a job that can be done, even in a simple way,
starting from modest projects. In this way, you grow with your project
and are not overwhelmed by something far bigger than you. I believe that a young audience has responded to me because I have tried to convey
the idea of an agriculture that is eminently possible, of a wine that
is possible. However, I have also preserved a complex of agricultural
traditions that are essential to preserve, a culture of agronomic practices
that must not be forgotten.
Is it difficult to practice agriculture in a land like this?
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI
Look, I like to talk about agriculture in positive terms because my
generation is the offspring of a world that has suffered because of
agriculture: farmers sent their children away to study, to learn a profession,
far from working the earth. And that is the reason why Vittoria has no young
winemakers. Here, those who made wine have suffered the most. That is
the reason why our denomination has not developed sufficiently. Here, the
agriculture that works best is greenhouse farming. The Vittoria farmer, the
son of a Vittoria native, would never do what we do, toiling in the vineyard. If
we don’t analyse the social component of our land, we will find it difficult to
glimpse new perspectives. How can you relaunch a denomination, a growing area,
an agricultural way of life?
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI You can do it if you have a vision—which these producers here have, and
very few others. Like Planeta, Master of Wine. But it is clear that you
establish or relaunch a growing area only if there is a commonly-felt identity.
Taking as an example other growing areas, is a denomination for
Frappato feasible, based on more structured efforts to create a
common image?
GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI The problem is that viticulture is not visible here. And the landscape
does not help. Salina is easily promoted, thanks to the fact that it is in
the Aeolian Islands, and Etna has its volcano. These are places where the
territory almost communicates itself. The real heroic agriculture (laughs)
is done by us – with only 90mm of rain per year and a wine landscape
that you struggle to even notice.
NIKOLAS RESIN
I see it more optimistically. We are focusing a lot on the purely agricultural
aspect of this territory: not only wine but also oranges, olives, vegetables.
And to do so we are inspired by regenerative agriculture--the most modern
and futuristic approach that we can find, in my opinion. And this is because
we see that every year is increasingly difficult. We have to recover and
improve the land, but we have to somehow manage to slow down climate
change at the same time, and even reverse it. But there are theories on how
to do it.
Conclusions: A Wine, a Story, a Land
Given these problems, do you have any specific actions in mind for
relaunching the Vittoria wine region?
GUGLIELMO MANENTI For a real relaunch, we need to shore up the weak points, such as the low
number of bottles produced. And in recent years, also due to climate issues,
production has dropped even more. We need young, new producers, such
as Nikolas and Waiata, who come here and plant new vineyards. This would
trigger a virtuous circle, and then some problems, such as a certain neglect
and abandonment of the land, would begin to disappear. We also have poor
communication skills: we are an out-of-tune orchestra. We live, each of
us, in a comfort zone, because for better or worse we manage to sell our
bottles. But if the approximately 40 producers that make up the consortium
could instead speak a single language, we could grow. We need a common
lever to work with – the denomination or the grape variety or the
territory: they are all concentric circles that we need to activate together.
GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI
We could also operate like the FAI, which buys villas and historic buildings
and revitalizes them. We could do the same with our old and abandoned
winecellars and with the vineyards: buy land and give it to young people to
manage, young entrepreneurs. Involve, for example, the local banks, which
have every interest in making this land rich and productive.
ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI It is also essential to activate sharing, exchanges, between producers: that
is, to create the opportunity to taste each other’s wines, regularly: this
increases the awareness of our wine and viticulture, and our growing areas.
Because while it’s true that we lack vineyards, we also lack a vision
regarding wine. It is essential to also create a common narrative: a
geological identity, a wine identity.
GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI Remembering, however, to pay close attention, first of all, to the residents
of this area, because this is where we live. Only in this way can we think of
elevating ourselves. We need to feed and grow a venture not only made up
of enthusiasts like us, but also of producers who do the bare minimum.
Make them love this land more, keep it clean. Respect the territory: those
who made Brunello great were an incredible community that worked with
respect for Brunello. Those who went to produce on Etna respected Etna.
Let’s remember that.
SALVO FOTI Training the people who work in the vineyard is also fundamental. When I
started, it was easier to find people who had agricultural knowledge; now
that is no longer the case. We need specific training that can respond to
the needs of this particular territory. I agree with Arianna on the need to
form a critical mass: meet, discuss and grow together as producers. A
way to exchange problems and solutions. In this way we begin to create
a community and true identity. A moment of growth for everyone. And
face the challenges together. Today, we have only one certainty: climate
change. Every year we face new challenges, and sharing solutions will be
increasingly necessary. Finally, communication: I would focus first of all on
the locals, the restaurants, the trattorias, the pizzerias. What do they know
about Frappato? Are they telling its story? And how? We should first of all
recover pride in our roots. And form a conscience. Focus on the people.
After all, they are the territory.
